October Ephemeral

On the last day of October, an effervescence of dragonflies fizzed the shade and skies around camp; an immaculate incandescence, prompting a frenzy of hyperphagy – the glut of softly whirring insects easy prey for hawking kingfisher, bee-eater and roller. The flare of lapis wings barred azure almost hypnotic in the dappled shade, a living flash of light drawing flame. Now they are gone – dispersed or eaten, and the hazy dome of blue seems empty without their iridescence.The lions in camp this morning proved sufficient...

Independence Day

The plaintive keening cry sears the soul – it’s a call to, and a celebration of, the wild and wildness. It’s October 24th, the 55th anniversary of Zambian Independence, and since we are in the bush a day to celebrate our national bird, the ubiquitous fish eagle. Appearing on our flag and coat of arms, the fish eagle represents freedom and the nation’s hope for the future, alongside emblems representing the country’s economic backbone: minerals and mining, agriculture, and wildlife.In the...

Meditations on the Massive

In a world where (almost) everything is instant – instant news, instant noodles, Instagram – to watch and enjoy life at its own unhurried pace is almost novelty, but that’s really what safari and being in the bush is all about. However, when camp is busy, there’s always something to be doing, to be done and the slow time can be forgotten. Sometimes, though, a pause can be unexpectedly enforced when an elephant browses the trees close to the walkway in camp. Yes, there may...

A Belligerence of Buffalo

Nebulas of dust and grit swirl softly in the breeze – marking a stark contrast to the commotion caused by several tonnes of animal pawing the ground, kicking up galactic clouds in a general fit of the obstreperous.October heat has arrived early, and with it (increased) dry conditions and fodder even more scarce for the grazers and browsers. From the deep shade of the canvas canopy of Zambezi deck, ceiling fans idly billowing cooling misted water, we watch the impact of this difficult climate over...

Mavara

Up in the canopy of the acacia, shrouded and spotted by the fallacious shade of arborial twilight, was the female leopard. Up in the mottled murk of branch and leaf, was the baboon, also. There, Mavara, of the golden eyes and powerful paw, gleaming fang and snarling maw, boxed the shadows, defending her kill – and as the guests were to later learn – her cub, from the shrieking attack. The half full leopard warily guarded her half empty baboon carcass as the onslaught continued: the living...

A Regular Army of Hippopotarmi

I imagine being in the middle of a pod of hippos to be much like an eternal trip to the traffic department, or some other bureaucratic operation of chaotic organization, in the height of a summer afternoon. The reluctantly gaggled group of all ages and shapes and sizes, with moods ranging from grumpy, to mildly annoyed and downright livid, all jostle for space on tiny plastic chairs in the hope of eventually shuffling closer to the non-existent breeze from an ancient fan. There’s that...

September Swallows

On September the first the swallows hatched. Finally Summer, as the ancient Wessex song goes, is icumen in. The wire-tailed couple have been building their nest and settling the eggs for the past month and a half, eagerly watched by my binoculars, and much to the general bemusement of guests collected around the cake at tea-time. In the lee light of the roof rafter’s spine, they have moulded their nest from promethean clay - the dredgings of a potter’s tray: mud and spit...

Piscine Pursuit

“As no man is born an artist, so no man is born an angler.” It’s alliterative, so it must be true, or so at least I reassure myself as I lose a fish for the nth time this afternoon…So quoth Izaak Walton in 1653 in the seminal work The Compleat Angler, along with other gems such as “Rivers and the inhabitants of the watery elements are made for wise men to contemplate and for fools to pass by without consideration” and “good company in...

The Cat’s Meow

Exhausted and all worn out from their playing, the little lion cubs collapse into a heap of oversized paws, twitching, tufted ears and snowy whiskers. John and I look across at each other, almost unable to believe this incredible chance sighting of the six cubs rocketing out of the undergrowth of Narina Trogon river bed, running helter-skelter, play fighting and tumbling over and over in the soft sand like so many kittens. It was impossible to keep eyes on all of them at once – as...

Island Lunch

Crepuscular sheaves of shrivelight pierce the canopy of the leadwoods, littering the island floor with spashings and dashings of sun, mottled and sprottled like the spots of a leopard. It’s approaching noon and on the sand below stands a lone umbrella, awning a table set for two, green camp chairs looking across the Zambezi to the hazy skein of the distant escarpment. The edge of the white tablecloth flutters in the gentle breeze as a fish eagle surveys his riverine demesne from a high...

In Safari we Rusk

If you’ve stayed with us before, you may well remember our insanely delicious rusks, made all the more magical with the addition of a healthy dousing in 11 o’clock tea or coffee for madly moreish mastication…Due to popular demand I have convinced and cajoled the kitchen to part with the recipe, but only on the condition that should you try to replicate at home, you remember the scent of woodsmoke in the morning, the feeling of warming chilled hands on a hot cup...

Wild Dogs

Margarine yellow, the moon has risen slowly above the Zambezi, carving a path of liquid gold in eddy and ripple, morsed into splashes and dashes by the trunks of the winterthorns along the river.There’s a crackle of “kaingu” on the radio as Robert and Lawrence coordinate their party of nine, finding three leopard in a single sighting… Our guests this season have been spoilt rotten with astonishing sightings of cats in general, just yesterday hyena prowling through camp, limp baboon carcass clamped firmly...

Zambezi Stand-off

Leopards and baboons, have, since their respective species emerged from the primordial soup, been set against each other in pitched warfare. Their shared realm of the tree canopy, the leopard’s opportunistic propensity to prey on baboon, and the primate’s to warn other members of the troop and to ruin the hunt, have rendered the two mortal enemies. This we know, but little did we expect to see the lines of battle drawn from ancient grudge to break new mutiny once more in the...

Guvu’s Dynasty: Can You Feel the Love Tonight?

Whatever the day, whatever the year, Lion King premiere imminent or not, there is NO bad time to hear about the arrival of lion cubs. How amazing to report SIX baby lions! I do however, think real credit for their story and this circle of life goes to Guvu, the matriarch of our pride and pride of Anabezi home territory. It is after all through her effort and determination that we can announce a family now 14 strong: three males, Guvu, her two daughters, two sons...

Diamonds and Spoor: giving you Clarity

Diamonds on the Soles of their Spoor…Limousine languid and ticking softy in the still air, the ephemeral iridescence of spider hunting wasps circle a nearby winter cassia. Its late afternoon and we are already hot, dusty and tired, but that’s all quickly forgotten when there’s sign of lion around. We know they’ve passed through at some point and are certainly laid up in a bush to avoid the heat – the only question is where?! At last we’ve found our most...

Elephant Table Manners

If you follow us on Instagram or Facebook, you may well have noticed something of a proliferation of elephant across our feed of late. Fact is, in addition to the two male lions Blackie and Ginger wandering through the miombo below camp last week, or the leopard stalking impala using the shade thrown by the floodlights on Zambezi deck, we have been fairly inundated with the great grey behemoths.Two of our guests were lucky enough to witness the very rare spectacle of an old...

Bush Dinner

Snail soft and slow, the full moon rises above the sweep of the Mushika river bed, its light strong and true in the crisp winter air, setting the silica in the sand to glitter like so many brilliant gems, oneiric and clear. The linen is starched and the candles lit, places laid and the bar fully stocked. All that remains for us to do is await the low grumble of the vehicle bearing our guests – camouflaged by the reverberating call of lion in the distance....

Food for Thought: a Leopard’s Kill

Watching the life’s light leave an impala’s eye was an experience I’m not likely to forget in a hurry.Death is a subject that we talk about in relation to a lion kill or a leopard kill: a predator’s ownership of prey, and morbidly thrilling or chilling to see in the danse macarbre of shadows that the spotlight casts. An opportunity to see the big cats in their element. Yet, for all the visceral display of gore and guts that attend...

The Naming of the Shrew

An oh-so-casual “have you seen the elephant shrew?” lilts across the bar, as guests trickle onto Zambezi deck for tea, and as it’s Monday. scones. The scene is too perfect to be plausible, but the shrew, scenting the soft breeze with its patent proboscis, pays no heed to the unlikelihood of the situation, and continues in its scurrying bounce to flit about the pool-side lawn… It beats an occasional retreat to the undergrowth when startled by the almost Napoleonic salute of Canon camera and...

Horns versus Antlers: a Rumination

Antlers versus Horns: a RuminationAntlers or horns? What is the difference and does it matter? Well the answer, predictably is yes, and very much so. To answer this we need to take a closer look at the Linnaean taxonomy (how animals are classified according to the basic concentric groups of Kingdom, Phylum, Class, Order, Family, Genus and Species) and phylogeny (or evolutionary history) of ruminants. The Ruminantia is a taxon of the greater order Artiodactyla (even toed ungulates or hoofed animals), comprised of most...

Dreamy Anabezi

There are few things that can prepare you for your first glimpse of the lower Zambezi. Flying out of Kenneth Kaunda airport in a small Cessna or the regularly scheduled ProFlight caravan, the journey is a matter of minutes: lifting over the blue Zambezi escarpment to the south east, craning your neck to try to spot the movement of game on the hills below, the sharply defined ridges mapped out like so much crumpled paper, folded into valley and peak – each a palette of dense...

What to Pack?

Many regular travellers find packing a breeze - they’ve worked out the ratio of essentials to availability of laundry service and somehow effortlessly manage to fit their luggage into a small carryon bag. However, if travelling is not in your usual routine and safari in particular is new to you, this post may well help make the process of selection and packing less daunting.Anabezi and Amanzi camps are reached either by small propeller plane, usually flying from the domestic terminal of Kenneth Kaunda...

Meet the Team 2019

Now that we are up and running and back in action, it’s timeto meet the 2019 team:Solomon (Solly) Tevera, our new General Manager of operations across both Anabezi and Amanzi will be a familiar face for previous guests. With over 20 years’ experience in the industry and a keen sense of humor, there is no one more capable to oversee the smooth running of what promises to be an incredible season.Manyando Ndlovu, Assistant Manager and Head of Maintenance is the man with a...

Fishing on the Zambezi

Zambia is known for its astonishing wilderness areas. In Liuwa Plains there is a wildebeest migration, the biggest mammal migration of them all takes place in Kasanka National Park where over 10 million straw-colored fruit bats arrive during the months of October and November and the beautiful Lower Zambezi National which is a replica of the famous Mana Pools.However, not many people realize how incredible the fishing is! Typically when you go on safari, you would climb onto a jeep and go adventuring searching for...

Motherhood

Not too long ago I briefly wrote about the relationship between baboons and impala, I had honestly thought I’d seen it all when it came to these two species interacting with one another. However, in mid November 2018, I witnessed something that you probably wouldn’t believe without evidence. Thankfully I have videos and pictures to prove it!I was bumbling a long one morning with Shannon, it was exceptionally hot and no sign of the rains arriving either. We had seen a mating pair...

Happy New Year

It’s almost time for 2018 to come to an end and I’m sure most of you will agree, that the year has flown by. All the city dwellers are getting ready for a celebration of sorts, last minute arrangements being made and even trying to find that perfect outfit to wear for the New Years Eve bash.However, it’s a completely different world in the Lower Zambezi National Park, no music, no sparkling lights and no fire works. Camp is quiet with just...

What’s That Sound?

I remember going on many safari holidays as a child and I absolutely loved them, but the worst was always when the sun set and darkness filled the sky. My bed time was fairly early and I dreaded my parents switching off the lights because I was most certainly afraid of the dark.I also lacked skill in the sleeping department so while my brother slept soundly through the night, I tossed and turned. Every sound I heard would have me on high alert in...

There’s An Elephant On The Walkway

The Lower Zambezi National Park is a massive unfenced wilderness area which means that the animals are free to roam wherever they please. This also means that they tend to find themselves in a bit of trouble, as humans have decided to set up shop along the Zambezi River in many different ways.Some of the locals are fishermen and others are farmers, planting delicious crops that the elephants can’t resist during the dry winters, however, this happens in the Game Management Areas (GMAs)...

Things That Go Bump In The Night

The sun had just set behind the Zambezi Escarpment and the last of the light was starting to fade. The birds were singing one last tune and the baboons walked across the floodplain to the trees that line the dry Mushika River where they slept most nights.Suddenly it was deathly quiet, but only for a moment… A horrific sound erupted from the river bed and I practically jumped out of my seat. It was a zebra bleating and it sounded like it was fighting...

A Birders Paradise

Before the sun has even risen over the mighty Zambezi River the sounds of the bush can be heard. The groans of a disgruntled buffalo, whooping hyena in the distance and, of course, the bellowing calls of hippo are amongst the most common sounds you’ll hear on safari. However, the birds never seem to stop tweeting in the lower Zambezi Valley.Both the Anabezi and Amanzi luxury tents are permanently pitched in the most beautiful spots, you don’t need to leave your tent...

Check Availability